The Art of Craft

Small craft advisory

As an artist, I aspire to be crafty.

Forget the misguided, and tragically oppressive Western narrative of ‘high art’ as somehow ‘enlightened’ and more valuable than the exquisite beauty found across all creative expression labeled as ‘craft’. 

If you can translate an idea from mind to hand, the material is immaterialyou are an artist - plain and simple.

My creative curiosity has led me down a crafty path or two, and I’m now enamored with one diversion so often associated with handiwork:  natural dyeing.

Some of my kitchen favorites for natural dye:  avocado, turmeric, red cabbage and black bean.

Some of my kitchen favorites for natural dye: avocado, turmeric, red cabbage and black bean.

While I could fight against the notion that this diminishes the value of my art, why would I entertain such a silly thought?

Nope.  I choose to celebrate, my artist friends, so let’s get crafting with natural color!

 

Color classics

Focusing on colors from nature in #The100DayProject has filled my fridge with an incredible rainbow of botanical dyes.

Dyes brewed from foraged plants and food scraps during #The100DayProject.

Dyes brewed from foraged plants and food scraps during #The100DayProject.

Every time I find a new plant to brew, I add to my collection.  When I see a color missing, I go searching for a plant.  It is a never-ending exploratory cycle.

10 dye plants foraged from Tambark Park and my garden waste to study local flora colors.

10 dye plants foraged from Tambark Park and my garden waste to study local flora colors.

As I shared my project, and the art I created with these dyes, I could hear the buzz all around me as people became curious themselves.  Certainly interested, and maybe even inspired, to learn about natural dyes.

I get this.  I have a history of being intrigued myself.   It’s how this passion for organic color grew and how I learned what I know so far.  Ironically, it seems the more you know, the more you want to know.

Having had many of the same questions when I started my love affair with nature’s palette in 2017, I have been searching high and low for answers ever since.

When I learned from a Dutch artist that seaweed was a sustainable source of dye, I headed to Iceland to investigate.

When I learned from a Dutch artist that seaweed was a sustainable source of dye, I headed to Iceland to investigate.

And, because sharing is caring, I’m very excited to tell you a secret I’ve been keeping all to myself:

Starting in August 2020, I will be releasing short tutorial videos and mini-courses all about the incredible world of natural color.  My intention is to build a place where you can easily find the basics to get you inspired to add color to your life naturally.

Soon to be released YouTube channel, Cookin’ Color, with short video tutorials on organic dyes, August 2020.

Soon to be released YouTube channel, Cookin’ Color, with short video tutorials on organic dyes, August 2020.

The topic is HUGE.  There are so many options and different approaches to extracting color, plus a multitude of ways to use it.

For me, organic color has been an integral part of my installation practice, and more recently my mixed media work.  But a beautiful aspect of natural color is that it is available to everyone, no matter where you consider yourself on the art/craft spectrum.

Bioplastics cooked and cured with natural dyes in my kitchen studio in June 2020.

Bioplastics cooked and cured with natural dyes in my kitchen studio in June 2020.

And, the botanical dye in my fridge right now is a perfect example of the countless ways we can weave natural color into almost everything.

 

Nature’s bounty

Finding a way to create color in an ephemeral installation without hurting an environment is how I got hooked on natural dyes.  But as my #100DaysOfNaturesColors meandered its way through botanical dyes and earth pigments, I could clearly see just how many different ways I have been exploring color from nature.  Maybe one or more of these will strike a creative chord with you too!

 

TEXTILE

Probably the most obvious and popular use of natural dyes is to create sumptuous hues for fabric.  With a growing interest of sustainability in fashion, botanical colors are popping up from head to toe.  If you’ve got natural fibers in your closet (cotton, hemp, silk, wool), you can dye organically – the options are endless.

Textiles of wool, silk, cotton and bamboo hand-dyed in Oaxaca exclusively with organic matter.

Textiles of wool, silk, cotton and bamboo hand-dyed in Oaxaca exclusively with organic matter.

My first on-line workshop will be on how to create an ombre-dyed scarf from foods in your kitchen, and this fall, I will be teaching a similar technique using earth pigments.  Incorporating these rich colors into a wardrobe is a delicious way to get your art out of the house.

However, if knitting or weaving is more your speed, soaking yarn, string or ribbon in a batch of botanicals can create subtle sweetness.  Just look at the wonder of this wool I dyed in Mexico.

Wood hand-dyed in organic matter including indigo, muicle, pericon and cochineal in Oaxaca, Mexico.

Wood hand-dyed in organic matter including indigo, muicle, pericon and cochineal in Oaxaca, Mexico.

While I preferred to use this fiber for installation, imagine a hat, scarf, mittens or sweater with that special colorful touch?

But who says you have to wear hand-dyed textilesMy mom was an avid quilter which I’m certain has influenced my mixed media textile pieces and love of squares.

Naturally dyed textile piece, Blossom, created while on residency in Oaxaca, Mexico, March 2020.

Naturally dyed textile piece, Blossom, created while on residency in Oaxaca, Mexico, March 2020.

How special it would have been to forage with my mom and organically dye fabric swatches for her to sew into her quilt creations.  Keep that in mind for the quilters in your life.

 

PAPER

Textile’s extended fiber family is paper.  The delicate translucency of paper has intrigued me for quite some time, both for sculptural and 2D applications.  In Oaxaca, I first tested how wet strength fibers like mulberry and tissue would hold the colors I had brewed, and it worked like a charm.

First time hand-dyeing paper with plant matter in Oaxaca, Mexico, March 2020.

First time hand-dyeing paper with plant matter in Oaxaca, Mexico, March 2020.

So, one chunk of 10 days during #The100DayProject, I focused on creating collage with these dyed papers.  The variations of color, especially when layering, felt closely tied to the depth I love to create with overlays of silk in my textile pieces.

Hand-dyed paper collage backlit in Tambark Park, made exclusively from organic dyes foraged in Oaxaca, Mexico.

Hand-dyed paper collage backlit in Tambark Park, made exclusively from organic dyes foraged in Oaxaca, Mexico.

Feeling inspired, I foraged local ‘weeds’ in my beloved Tambark Park the last 10 days of the project and made a new rainbow stock of colorful paper from the PNW.

Paper samples of natural dyes brewed from foraged plants in my neighborhood.  Only blue butterfly pea was from my kitchen!

Paper samples of natural dyes brewed from foraged plants in my neighborhood. Only blue butterfly pea was from my kitchen!

What’s wonderful about paper is its versatility across several art disciplines, and a true staple in many craft projects.   Why not make hand-dyed paper with plants foraged from your neighborhood the next time the scissors and glue need some exercise?

 

INK

Dyeing paper is one way to spread some of nature’s colors around, but making ink turns just about any organic matter into a medium for drawing and watercolor fun.

I simply poured the dyes I brewed from foraged plants in Iceland and Mexico on paper, but learning how to make ink specifically was yet another way to expand my natural color wheel during the last 100 days.

Testing inks made from avocado skin and red cabbage during #The100DayProject.

Testing inks made from avocado skin and red cabbage during #The100DayProject.

I even made blue ink with my cherished blue butterfly pea blossoms for the first time, one of the most elusive colors of nature.

Watch out - lake pigments might be just around the next corner!

 

KITCHEN KRAFT

While all of the above may result in time at a craft table, a stovetop is still a critical element in a studio of natural dyes.  Therefore, it’s no surprise that crafts of the kitchen can also add a splash of organic color.

Much of my installation work was born in the kitchen - infused ice, mung bean and playdough have been some of my edible shining stars.

Mung bean string installation naturally dyed with kitchen scraps in Sayulita, Mexico, December 2018.

Mung bean string installation naturally dyed with kitchen scraps in Sayulita, Mexico, December 2018.

Brewing organic dyes as natural food coloring for baking, cooking and blended drinks is certainly a fun way to add color in the kitchen.  At the very least, you can start with next year’s Easter eggs having that natural color vibe.

This year’s Easter Eggs were dyed au naturel in turmeric, red beet, red cabbage, avocado and blue butterfly pea.

This year’s Easter Eggs were dyed au naturel in turmeric, red beet, red cabbage, avocado and blue butterfly pea.

Plus, the kitchen is the perfect place to start playing with natural dyes in general.   So many fruits/veggies, spices and even food scraps can make wonderful colors with very simple recipes

In case you missed it this spring, download a copy of my Cookin’ Color brew booklet with a few of my favorite kitchen dye recipes, or better yet, sign up here for my 5 Days of Dye short video tutorial series releasing soon in a kitchen near you!

 

HEADING

Go ahead – call me crafty.  I don’t mind at all.

To be honest, I question why any negative association became attached to a word that honors the vision and skill it takes to create beauty with your hands.  To be an accomplished craftsperson is a lofty goal for any artist, and certainly one I aim for in my daily practice.

So, let’s keep spreading the art of craft in the world today!

 

The colorful Mr. Biv

The stuff of rainbows

Don’t know about you, but I have a handful of tricks up my sleeve to remember trivial bits of information.  I am the maven of mnemonics:

  • Need to know how many days there are in April?  Got my knuckles for that.

  • That 5 letter Great Lake messing up your crossword puzzle? Try H.O.M.E.S. on for size.

  • Pulling out the crayons to draw your sweetheart a rainbow?  I’d like you to meet Mr. Roy G. Biv

I think it was my grade school art teacher, Mr. Malley, who taught us how to remember the seven colors of the rainbow.  (Yes, I had a full time art teacher with a dedicated art room when I was a kid!).

Mr. Biv has been a tool in my paint caddy ever since.

The organic colors of the rainbow hand-dyed on paper in my residency studio in Oaxaca, Mexico.

The organic colors of the rainbow hand-dyed on paper in my residency studio in Oaxaca, Mexico.

So, of course, Mr. Biv was my travel companion to my artist residency in Oaxaca, Mexico, last month as I continued my quest to find the rainbow in nature’s palette.  Let’s just say, we found all seven of his colorful letters and then some! 

Red

The color of love (among many other things) is a highly sought after hue that has a history connected to imperialism and revolution.  Minerals of hematite and cinnabar, the root of madder and several parasitic creatures have been foraged and crushed so we can bathe in red.

One insect in particular has become the darling in the wide world of dye:  cochineal

I had only bumped into cochineal about a year ago when I was preparing for my residency in Iceland.  Visiting a dye master in the countryside two hours north of Reykjavik, Guðrún Bjarnadóttir shared the secret sauce of her scarlet wool yarn.

The gorgeous hand-dyed Icelandic wool of Hespa Iceland. Looks like a neutral cochineal soak to me with those bright fuchsias peeking through.

The gorgeous hand-dyed Icelandic wool of Hespa Iceland. Looks like a neutral cochineal soak to me with those bright fuchsias peeking through.

She had a large jar of cochineal that she imported to Iceland as her ancestors had done before.  You see, red and its variations are not natural colors found in Iceland.

Cochineal is a parasite that lives on the nopales cactus indigenous to present day Mexico and Peru.

The white powder of the cochineal insect dusting nopales cacti before harvest.

The white powder of the cochineal insect dusting nopales cacti before harvest.

Contrary to what you may think, the red comes from carminic acid, not blood, which acts as a deterrent against predators.  Or, if you are human, it seems you are wildly attracted to it!

Working for three weeks on a cochineal farm in Santa Maria Colotepec in Oaxaca, Mexico, the secrets of its beauty were slowly revealed to me.

All the lovely shades of cochineal hanging out in wool yarn on the farm near Oaxaca, Mexico.

All the lovely shades of cochineal hanging out in wool yarn on the farm near Oaxaca, Mexico.

But, not only did this tiny insect produce the most amazing carmine color, it played a starring role in many of Mr. Biv’s letters.

Orange

Beyond the measurements I wrote about in last month’s Trail Tale, dyeing incorporates some elements of chemistry

Who remembers those little litmus strips from your high school lab?  Well, turns out cochineal is sensitive to the pH level in the dye bath.  Add a bunch of lemon juice, aka. acid, and mira - orange!

Shifting cochineal neutral by squeezing lemons. The secret of playing with pH!

Shifting cochineal neutral by squeezing lemons. The secret of playing with pH!

Makes me chuckle to think that adding yellow to red actually makes orange in this corner of the dye world.  Trust me, that isn’t a hard and fast rule in dye chemistry, but cochineal happily plays along.

Yellow

I know what you’re thinking:  lemon juice must be a key ingredient in yellow dye.  Nope.  I have recently seen Sasha Duerr, a natural dye specialist, create yellow from citrus skins, but in Oaxaca, we used pericon.

You may know this native herb as Mexican tarragon or marigold, both of which are used as dye in other parts of the world.  The pericon grown and harvested on the cochineal farm, however, produced a gloriously vibrant yellow that demanded visual attention.

The green leaves of pericon cooking up some instense yellow on silk strips I used for installation in Oaxaca.

The green leaves of pericon cooking up some instense yellow on silk strips I used for installation in Oaxaca.

Move over marigold – you may have a rival nipping at your heels, but pericon may be tough to find in my local PNW nursery.

Green

When it comes to the plant world, it’s not easy being green.

Both, Guðrún Bjarnadóttir and Manuel, my Oaxacan dye master, utilize the primary color theory to achieve green.  First you dye with yellow (pericon or another yellow source), and then you over-dye with blue (indigo), another elusive color rarely found in nature. Voila - green!

Although I attempted this on the farm with my wool yarn samples, I struggled with the indigo (more on that below).  That didn’t stop me from experimenting in my own dye studio on days away from the farm, and I had some success.

Who knew the cold sludge of fermenting black beans could tease out such gorgeous greens?

Who knew the cold sludge of fermenting black beans could tease out such gorgeous greens?

No over-dye step required here.  Just a 2 day cold soak in fermented black beans

I was expecting a grayish blue dye result when I bought the dried beans in the Mercado 20 de Noviembre.  You just never know with natural dye - the surprise element is one of its sweetest characteristics

Blue

If you think red is tough, you haven’t met blue yet.  Treasured minerals of lapis lazuli and azurite are pigments of royalty.  In the plant kingdom, indigo is queen.

The cochineal farm is an educational venue exclusively focused on the natural dyes of the region, and indigo has roots in the tropical climate of the Oaxacan coastline.  Manuel grows every plant we used on the farm, but his indigo suffers in the dry heat.  So, as traders have done for centuries, Manuel brings his indigo crystals from the coast.

Grinding indigo with mortar and pestle before adding it to the dye pot.

Grinding indigo with mortar and pestle before adding it to the dye pot.

Extracting color from indigo is a labor intensive process and one that requires humility and reverence. I was quickly humbled by the mystery of blue.

 

Indigo

With all the work that went into making 12 dye pots to create 40 unique colors over three weeks, saving indigo for last didn’t surprise me.  However, I soon realized that rushing indigo at the end did not honor its spirit, and so it did not fully share its color with me.

The many shades of indigo from an ignored dye pot hanging out with no-fuss cochineal orange.

The many shades of indigo from an ignored dye pot hanging out with no-fuss cochineal orange.

When I explained how tough my day with indigo had been, a local artist told me the secret of the blue goddess: one must be fully present without distraction or haste.

I love this thought.  It rings true across so many aspects of life, and so now indigo is yet another gentle reminder of the beauty of presence.

Violet

The last letter in Mr. Biv’s name was a dual effort in the organic realm.  That sneaky, chameleon of a dye, cochineal, can be shifted to a yummy color of the violet persuasion.  All the alchemist has to do is sprinkle in minerals (various recipe options) which can shift the pH balance to alter the hue.

Cochineal neutral plus 15% alum working its violet magic!

Cochineal neutral plus 15% alum working its violet magic!

No minerals to be had – no problem:  muicle to the rescue!  Picking the leaves of this medicinal shrub on the farm produced a lovely violet dye as well.  I doubt these leaves are sold in my local farmer’s market, so they may be a color treat solely for the Oaxacan palette.

 

Dye me a river

The colorful experience I was so lucky to have in Oaxaca is not soon to be forgotten. Just ask Mr. Biv.

But, that hasn’t stopped me from building my own mnemonic device to capture some of the amazing tips I learned, and a few of the easy kitchen recipes that can produce a rainbow.

Cookin Color Cover.jpg

Feeling inspired to get your dye on now? Click here for the Cookin’ Color Brew Booklet to see if you can catch Roy G. Biv just like I did!

xoxo - Byrdie